Direct flight between Buenos Aires and Kansas City? Say less. If only it had existed during my most recent visit to Argentina over winter break, not just in June for the upcoming World Cup.
On the morning of Dec. 14, I woke up groggy from an 11-hour flight and some Dramamine, but beyond elated to be in one of the best places on Earth: Argentina. (I may be biased.)
For the next 10 days, I was on a mission to soak up as much Argentine culture, food, family and sun as possible. Thank you, Jesus, for opposite seasons.
As far as I can remember, I have visited Buenos Aires and its suburbs to see my cousins, grandparents, aunts and uncles. This trip was the first time I had flown there alone.
Immediately, I flipped what I imagined to be a light switch in my brain to Spanish mode. I met my aunt at the arrivals gate after collecting my luggage and passing through customs and immigration, then stepped into the warm humidity.
Usually when I visit, I am flexible with my family’s plans. Being flexible in Argentine culture is certainly key. This time, however, I made plans to check some new things off my bucket list.
First, I had to eat. I went to lunch with the family members who were available at the time. Family meals are a custom and incredibly common. In Argentina, there is what’s known as the custom of sobremesa, in which you not only eat a meal together but also spend time socializing. My lunch on the first day was a simple avocado salad and a Coke Zero. I swear Coke tastes better there. Lucky for me, this lunch out was not the only long meal I got to enjoy. Other highlights included multiple horas de té, lots of café, plenty of bread, an asado, and empanadas.
Every day around 5 p.m., people gather for La hora de té, where they have snacks such as alfajores, medialunas and other pastries and drink maté — a traditional caffeinated herbal tea — Coca-Cola or water.
Hands down, the best meal is asado, which is essentially a South American barbecue. It entails an assortment of meats cooked on a traditional, outdoor grill, known as a parrilla. I was lucky to have my uncle cook an asado twice.
After my meal, I soaked in Argentine culture by watching my cousin play in the finals of his handball tournament, a popular sport in the country. I also watched another cousin take polo lessons and learned that Argentina is the polo capital of the world. My knee injury prevented me from participating, but I enjoyed drinking maté in the warm weather while I watched.
Other trip highlights included a concert at Estadio Monumental, experiencing Latin American nightlife with my cousin (the parties start around 2 a.m. and don’t end until the following morning), visiting a modern art museum, going out on the river in my uncle’s boat and, of course, walking through neighborhoods or soaking up the sun at the pool.
The most memorable day was my trip to downtown Buenos Aires, a city rich in history and culture. The detailed European-style architecture and melting pot of influence make it feel as if you have wandered into Europe rather than a Latin American city. Here, I sat on a restaurant patio with my grandparents, aunt and a couple of cousins, people-watching and listening to the loud, bustling sounds of the megacity contrasted with the tune of a violinist.
After lunch at La Panera Rosa, my two cousins and I walked to the Recoleta, a world-famous cemetery containing the graves of many famous presidents, artists, Nobel Peace winners and military commanders. We were surprised to discover the tomb of my great-grandmother and what appeared to be other relatives. Walking through a cemetery may sound odd, but the ornate architecture, statues and elaborate above ground mausoleums were absolutely breath-taking.
In fact, the cemetery is so famous that tours were offered in nearly every language. After visiting Recoleta, my cousins and I stopped for gelato before shopping and eventually taking public transportation home. Pro tip: If you ever get the chance to try their ice cream, ask for tramontana or crema americana.
One of the biggest takeaways I’m always reminded of when I return to the United States is the importance of relaxing and enjoying life. Everyone you greet in Argentina is incredibly friendly, happy and present in the moment. While time together is treasured, as expected in a collectivist culture, never count on anyone to be on time. When everyone is together, life feels like a party, as they treat every day like a celebration. Just make sure never to speak badly about Messi or fútbol.
I loved my time in Argentina and cannot wait to go back. If you are ever looking for a place to travel full of passionate, lively people and any climate you could want to experience, visit Argentina. I might just have to tag along, too.
